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SHEEP-fed-barely-sprouting-fodders, page : 230
3. Immerse the pelt in a solution of water and borax, using 1 ounce (29.6 ml) of borax for each gallon (3.8 liters) of water.
4. Work the pelt by stirring it frequently for about an hour in this solution, then rinse out in clear water.
5. Spin out the rinse water.
The next step is the drying and softening of the pelt:
Take the pelt out flat, with the flesh side out. With the salt-acid method the pelt is wet, whereas others such as the baking soda-kerosene method are dry. No matter which method you chose, your pelt is now cured, and when it is dry, it is very stiff and will need to be softened.
1. Put the pelt in a frame and apply a thin coat of a product used for water-proofing boots, or a product called neatsfoot oil, to the flesh side. The oil will take about 8 to 10 hours in a warm room to soak in. During this time you can dry out the wool side if necessary by using a fan or hair dryer. Thereafter apply a thin coat of tanning oil or leather dressing on the flesh side.
2. After the tanning oil has soaked in, allow the pelt to dry until it starts showing light-colored places. Remove it from the frame and start the softening process. Stretch the pelt in all directions, and flesh side down, work it over a board to soften the skin as it finishes drying.
3. When it is dry you can sandpaper the flesh side to give a smooth finish. Comb the wool with a coarse teeth or a metal dog comb and finish with one that has finer teeth. If the wool seems too fuzzy and dried out, try rubbing a hair dressing oil, such as a hot oil treatment conditioning product, on your hands, and rub them lightly through the wool, then brush it gently, you may have do to this more than once, keep repeating as necessary.
Baking Soda – Kerosene Tanning:
Baking soda and kerosene are both easily available.
To make the mix:
Add 10 pounds (4.5 kg) of baking soda to 1 gallon (3.9 liters) of kerosene – this should be sufficient for one skin. Mix until you have a paste that is about the consistency of cake batter before pouring it into the baking pan.
4. Work the pelt by stirring it frequently for about an hour in this solution, then rinse out in clear water.
5. Spin out the rinse water.
The next step is the drying and softening of the pelt:
Take the pelt out flat, with the flesh side out. With the salt-acid method the pelt is wet, whereas others such as the baking soda-kerosene method are dry. No matter which method you chose, your pelt is now cured, and when it is dry, it is very stiff and will need to be softened.
1. Put the pelt in a frame and apply a thin coat of a product used for water-proofing boots, or a product called neatsfoot oil, to the flesh side. The oil will take about 8 to 10 hours in a warm room to soak in. During this time you can dry out the wool side if necessary by using a fan or hair dryer. Thereafter apply a thin coat of tanning oil or leather dressing on the flesh side.
2. After the tanning oil has soaked in, allow the pelt to dry until it starts showing light-colored places. Remove it from the frame and start the softening process. Stretch the pelt in all directions, and flesh side down, work it over a board to soften the skin as it finishes drying.
3. When it is dry you can sandpaper the flesh side to give a smooth finish. Comb the wool with a coarse teeth or a metal dog comb and finish with one that has finer teeth. If the wool seems too fuzzy and dried out, try rubbing a hair dressing oil, such as a hot oil treatment conditioning product, on your hands, and rub them lightly through the wool, then brush it gently, you may have do to this more than once, keep repeating as necessary.
Baking Soda – Kerosene Tanning:
Baking soda and kerosene are both easily available.
To make the mix:
Add 10 pounds (4.5 kg) of baking soda to 1 gallon (3.9 liters) of kerosene – this should be sufficient for one skin. Mix until you have a paste that is about the consistency of cake batter before pouring it into the baking pan.